Songup Folk Village, Cheju Island
Songup Folk Village is located on Cheju-do, the largest island in Korea. ("Cheju" means place over there, and "do" means island.) To a large extent, the village is a product of the island; therefore, in order to appreciate Songup Folk Village, it is essential to consider the unique history and features of Cheju-do.
Cheju is small and oval-shaped, stretching approximately 75 kilometres from east to west, and 40 kilometres from south to north. It is situated approximately 100 kilometres south of the Korean Peninsula. Most visitors to Cheju, most of whom are tourists, arrive via Pusan, an industrial city on the southern tip of the peninsula.
Cheju was formed two million years ago by volcanic activity coupled with glaciation-caused changes in the sea level. Influenced by an oceanic climate in summer and a continental climate in winter, it has unusually mild weather with an annual mean temperature of 16 degrees celsius. This climate has given rise to more than 1,800 different types of plants, ranging from polar to subtropical in nature.
Mount Halla, located in the centre of Cheju Island, is the chief volcano. Currently dormant, Mount Halla looms over the surrounding countryside at a height of 1,950 metres. In addition to Mount Halla, there are 300 smaller volcanoes, known as Orum, spotted around the island. Songup Folk Village lies just a few kilometres to the southeast, some say in the shadow, of Mount Halla.
 Heritage lifestyle marks the character of Songup Folk Village. |
It's not known exactly when Cheju Island was first inhabited, but there was trade carried out between the island and the mainland states of Koguryo (B.C. 37 - A.D. 668) and Paekche (B.C. 18 - A.D. 660) more than 2,000 years ago. Additionally, records indicate that Cheju traded with the Han Chinese even earlier (B.C. 206 - A.D. 220).
At the beginning of the 12th century, just when Mount Halla became inactive, Cheju came under the control of the Koryo Kingdom. It was referred to as Tamna-gun ("gun" translates as "county"), though Cheju administered its own affairs. In fact, Cheju-do has for most of its history enjoyed at least some degree of autonomy or special treatment, at least in part because of its physical isolation.
When the Koryo Kingdom fell to the Mongols, Cheju, too, was dominated by these outsiders. This period lasted one hundred years, after which the control of the island reverted to Koryo. Not surprisingly, it was the Mongols who brought horse breeding to the island, where it has remained a key vocation for the islanders generally, and Songup Folk Villagers specifically. In the late part of the 14th century, the Yi dynasty superseded the Koryo Kingdom, a force that lasted into the 20th century. In 1948, following World War II, Cheju became a province of the modern day republic.
Today, Cheju is known for and described as having three unique and principal characteristics. First is the ever-blowing wind. Exposed as it is between the Sea of Japan, the East China Sea and the Yellow Sea, rare is a day on Cheju-do without wind. Second are the rocks. It is impossible to escape notice of the rocks which dot the landscape and to this day are used by villagers and farmers to build walls, fences, gates and even houses. The rocks act as a wind break, and given their basalt makeup, tend to absorb the wind's strength. This makes walls and houses much stronger than might otherwise be suspected. The third characteristic, as described by the islanders, is the women of Cheju-do.
The current population of Cheju-do is about 550,000, the majority of whom are women. Several reasons are given for this, the most common being that the fishing heritage of the coastal communities of Cheju-do results in a shorter than average lifespan for men.
In addition to the fact that the majority of inhabitants are female, the women of Cheju-do are particularly well known as "haen-yo" or divers. It is believed that women dominate this profession, which involves free-diving to depths of up to 20 metres and staying underwater for as much as five minutes, because they are better suited for it, physically, than men. The body mass of women includes a higher percentage of subcutaneous body fat, and this insulates them from the cold water.
The result has been a custom where some men stay at home and mind the children while women collect shellfish and seaweed to support the family. Though this practice is found throughout coastal communities in Korea and Japan, it is thought to have originated in Cheju-do. The role of women in this context, and the role of women more generally on Cheju-do, has resulted in the island being described by some as a female-dominant society. This attribute is particularly interesting within the evolving development of Songup Folk Village.
Songup Folk Village is located eight kilometres north of the small hamlet of Pyoson-ri at the foot of Mount Halla. Established in 1423, and continuously inhabited since that time, its heritage is openly illustrated in a variety of private dwellings (70 of 380 buildings are designated as heritage buildings), Hyangg-yo (local school annex of a Confucian Shrine), old government buildings, millstones, a fortress site, gravestones, the ever-present "Tolharubang" ("stone grandfather" in Cheju dialect -- the basalt guardian of the island), and the natural monuments designated as cultural sites by the local government. In addition, many villagers continue to practice traditional ways of life including cattle grazing and bee rearing. Overall, the village is an excellent example of the traditional lifestyle of the "mountain people" of Cheju Island.
The presentation of folk culture and heritage lifestyles at Songup Village attracts thousands of tourists, and they, in turn, provide the economic basis which encourages the continuation of the traditional way of life. At Songup Folk Village, it is mainly the women and children who are directly involved in the delivery of tourism support services. In effect, tourism development has sustained and actually enhanced local culture, traditional heritage and the folk lifestyle.
Tourists are drawn to the village almost entirely through packaged day tours. Songup may be just one stop on the tour, but it usually holds tourists' attention for a period of several hours, and is often the place for lunch, dinner or at least a quick snack. The key attractions, beyond the local food and many restaurants, are the heritage buildings, abundant artifacts, traditional clothing worn by residents, carvings and other crafts, and most importantly the chance to see living history.
In 1996, the population of Songup Folk Village was just under 1,500 people living in 426 households. The village area, or fortress site, encompasses slightly more than 100,000 square metres, with the preserved site actually extending to include almost 800,000 square metres. Economic activity, excluding tourism, focuses on agriculture, with 285 hectares under cultivation. In addition, a weekly, local market plays a key role in village trade. Interestingly, 40 percent of the villagers were not born in the Songup Folk Village community. They moved to the village in order to take advantage of the renewed agricultural activities as well as the growing tourism base.
Within the village, men tend to be employed primarily in the labour intensive, agricultural work in the fields beyond the village walls. This includes raising cows and horses, keeping bees, and growing fruits, vegetables and other crops such as tangerines, carrots and rape seed.
Traditionally, the agricultural activities also required the physical efforts of the women and children working alongside the men. However, a recent and modest level of mechanization has now freed the women and children from this, and, within the Songup Folk Village, these two groups now focus on the expanding tourist trade, including craft sales, food preparation, and educational programming such as heritage presentations and employment as tour guides.
A notable and easily-seen local product is the uniquely coloured clothing, created by dying fabrics with persimmon. Jackets and pants are made by the women and children, died in the distinctive colour, worn by villagers, and readily purchased by the tourists as a reminder of Cheju-do. Carvings and simple basalt sculptures are also common purchases, particularly the unique Tolharubangs.
Whereas the agricultural business is primarily one involving barter and exchange, tourism at the village level is notable for cash transactions. In addition, agriculture is to some extent seasonal, while tourism runs year-round. As a result, it is the women of Songup Folk Village, rather than the men, who find themselves controlling much of the household finances. This has accentuated the role of women and made them a substantial economic force within the community. Not only do women benefit from tourism, they appear to play the major role and are the obvious and immediate beneficiaries.
Interest in preserving the village took root in 1980 at which time the Cheju state government declared the village to be an important heritage site. Then, the central government began providing financial support, a practice which continues. Overall, government support reached 1.6 billion Won in 1993.
The purpose of the central government subsidy is to help villagers maintain, or even redevelop, the character of the Songup Folk Village site. For example, if a "modern" slate roof wears out, the government will provide a subsidy if the occupant is willing to rebuild a traditional thatched roof which will then be in keeping with the original village style. Other subsidies have been used to reconstruct the perimeter walls, restore older roads and alleyways, and renew village gates. As a designated heritage site, the villagers are not permitted to arbitrarily change the structural or architectural makeup of the village.
There is no village government per se, but there is a village association with four distinct groups, including the Women's Association, the Youth Association, the Older Persons' Association, and the Oldest Persons' Association. It is these village associations that give voice to the community, ensuring that it is the community that develops, drives and benefits from tourism within the village.
The Women's Association is generally responsible for village maintenance and upkeep. This group makes key decisions with respect to the presentation of the village, and the use of government subsidies. The Youth Association is responsible for program planning within the village, and for protecting the village. In effect, this group is the local village constabulary. The Older Persons' Association is a sub-group of the similar state association, with broad responsibility for overseeing the village. Reflected in this group is the emphasis on deference to age and, the associated characteristic, wisdom. Finally, the Oldest Persons' Association is responsible for identifying village issues, creating a forum to discuss these issues, and for generally polling residents.
 Tolharubangs "guard" the village. |
The Songup Folk Village is an excellent example of tourism development sustaining and even enhancing local culture, heritage and lifestyle. The local community, with support from the central government, is actively involved in the planning and implementation of tourism development within the district, specifically through the various village associations including the Songup Folk Village Preservation Committee. Environmentally sustainable development is given the highest priority, and carrying capacity in socially equitable and culturally appropriate ways is actively deliberated.
Advice to others from the Songup Folk Village leaders includes, "work with the government as it is a source for support, financing and protection." Just as importantly, the villagers actively demonstrate the importance of good communications and the need to ensure the involvement of the entire community. Communication is a priority of the Oldest Persons' Association, and it is expected that all villagers will be actively involved in community development.
On Cheju-do there are several artificial folk villages which display but do not "live" the heritage and culture. At Songup Folk Village it is felt by the village associations that, instead of investing in simulated villages, emphasis should be placed on real folk villages similar to Songup Folk Village. Also, there is a feeling that Songup requires a larger area, and that the village, or at least the portion that attracts and hosts visitors, should be extended.
Dong-baek Lee, a village elder, believes that it is increasingly important for travel agencies and tour groups to educate tourists on the mores of the village to a greater degree before the tourists arrive, specifically regarding dress and behaviour. He also describes living in Songup Folk Village as quite demanding, in that people are required to carry on with their daily lives in the midst of tourists literally walking through their homes.
Regardless of the challenges, the future of Songup Folk Village and the preservation of this unique mountain culture on Cheju-do looks very bright. Government support is helping to re-develop and preserve heritage lifestyles and architecture, the tourism base is growing year by year, and the community is the direct beneficiary.
 Traditional foods grace the table. |
Contact:
The Cheju-do Tourist Association
304-22 Youn-dong
Cheju City, Cheju-do, Korea,
82 64 42-8861 (Phone)
82 64 42-8865 (Fax)
http://www.knto.or.kr/english/etravel/new/cheju.htm
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