Chemainus, The Little Town That Did!
The small Canadian town of Chemainus is located on Vancouver Island, slightly more than an hour’s drive north on the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. Visitors to Chemainus arrive from the U.S. ports of Port Angeles and Seattle, via Victoria, and from Vancouver and Tsawwassen on the Canadian mainland, via Nanaimo on the east coast of Vancouver Island. The drive to Chemainus, regardless of route, is especially scenic, graced with towering forests, snow-capped mountains and ocean vistas.
 The Hong Hing Waterfront Store by Paul Marcano. |
The early history of the Chemainus area is inextricably tied to its forests and the associated industries. In the mid-1850s, the land was “owned” by the Hudson’s Bay Company, that most venerable Canadian corporation. Finally, in the late 1850s, the first white settlers purchased land and began to work the forests.
Chemainus, or more specifically the bay around which the town grew, was home to natural features which made it attractive to the forest industry. In particular, a powerful stream with a scenic waterfall was potent enough to operate the sawmill which opened in 1862, possibly the first mill operation on the Pacific coast that is still operational.
In spite of the mill site, the lumber industry gave rise to only a small settlement during the early years of Chemainus. By the mid-1880s there were a couple of houses, some shacks, and a combined post office and company store – hardly a large community. However, the late 1880s heralded the arrival of the railroad, and the town slowly grew for the next thirty years. In the early 1920s, the population was estimated at 600, with about half the inhabitants being of Chinese, Japanese and Salish Indian origin.
As a one-industry town, the fortunes of Chemainus shifted up and down, in concert with the forest industry, through much of the twentieth century. When wood products were in high demand, the town and its people thrived. When the industry was in decline, jobs were lost and the population tended to decline. Several times the mill shut down, only to be re-opened, and in several cases re-built, later.
 Thirty-three metre collage by Frank Lewis, Nancy Lagana and Paul Marcano. |
By the late 1970s, the mill was antiquated, the industry was suffering through exceptionally hard times, and “for sale” signs dotted the local landscape. For many, it appeared that Chemainus might not recover. The mill owner, MacMillan Bloedel, estimated losses during the 1979 - 1981 period at more than CD$15M, and the mill closed son after. Some thought the town was finished.
At this same time, the town had been awarded a grant from a provincial redevelopment fund and community leaders, led by a new, young Mayor, Graham Bruce, were searching for ideas on how to spend it. Karl Schutz, a highly successful German immigrant, was asked to contribute suggestions and, ultimately, coordinate the revitalization project.
In fact, since the early 1970s, Schutz had been promoting the notion of having large, outdoor murals painted around the town. Initially the local Chamber of Commerce had rejected this idea, but now, with the town in serious decline, the proposal was examined more carefully. Slowly, Schutz began to get commitment from various stakeholders. Finally, in 1982 the proposal was adopted, though not everyone in the community, at least at that time, thought tourism was the solution.
Beginning in 1982, and continuing for the next decade, a total of 27 murals were commissioned. All of them portray the history of Chemainus, celebrating, for example, native heritage, the Japanese legacy, and early settlers. Today, there are 33 murals. The last one was completed in 1996. To simply describe the outdoor art as “murals”, and let it go at that, would be misleading. Chemainus has bared its soul by exhibiting its history on its buildings.
Five works were completed in 1982, and these alone give a clear indication of the tone and focus of the entire enterprise. “Steam Donkey At Work”, by Frank Lewis and Nancy Lagana, like many other murals, is based on a photograph. Taken from Water Over The Wheel by W. H. Olsen, it depicts a steam donkey and crew performing the miserable job of hauling a log through the forest. “The Thirty-Three Metre Collage”, an incredibly large mural by the same artists and Paul Marcano, portrays a crew of stevedores on the Chemainus wharf, a boomman sorting logs, and a steam locomotive dumping a load of logs.
Paul Marcano also completed two of the 1982 murals. Using a 16 by 6.6 metre “canvas” he painted “Steam Train On Bridge Over Chemainus River”. Then with a smaller wall section, only 8 by 4.4 metres, he painted “The Hong Hing Waterfront Store”. Hong Hing, or more properly Fong Yen Lew, was a local hero, liked by all for his kindness and generosity when townspeople, usually because of economic downturns, could not afford to pay cash. His store was a fixture in Chemainus from the mid 1910s until the 1950s.
The fifth 1982 mural, also depicting the forest industry, is entitled “Fallers Undercutting A Fir”. Ten metres tall, this mural depicts the imposing size of the forest as well as the mechanics of logging that “fallers” practiced at the turn of the century.
In addition to the overall theme followed by the muralists, which has been to depict local history and culture, several sub-themes are clearly identifiable. For example, the native influence is dramatically displayed in a mural called “Native Heritage”. The major elements in this composition are three faces based on local figures from the aboriginal community. The mural’s size, 15.4 by 6.2 metres, and the strength of character, wisdom and grace apparent in the faces, make it a stunning artistic work.
“The Winning Float” and “The Lone Scout” celebrate the Japanese contribution to the Chemainus area. Painted by Joyce Kamikura, the former recreates the winning float, designed by members of the Japanese Canadian community, for the 1939 parade celebrating the golden jubilee of the Victoria Lumber and Manufacturing Company. The “Lone Scout”, painted by Stanley Hiromichi Taniwa, profiles Edward Shige Yoshida who, in 1929, started the first all-Japanese Canadian troop of Boy Scouts. Born in Chemainus, Mr. Taniwa was relocated to an internment camp during World War II. Afterwards, his family resettled in Ontario, some 3,200 kilometres east of Chemainus. According to the artist, “painting the mural was a personal statement.”
To date, more than $300,000 has been invested in the Chemainus mural project from federal, provincial, municipal, corporate and private sources. The look of the town is completely different. From a landscape of “for sale” signs to a sea of tourists, Chemainus has every right to call itself, “the little town that did.” (For a mural “tour”, see http://northcowichan.bc.ca/mural_1.htm)
 Arrive of 'The Reindeer' in Horseshoe Bay by Sandy Clark and Lea Goward. |
As nice as the murals might be, they were never seen as an end in themselves by either Karl Schutz or the Chamber of Commerce. That said, the west coast of Canada, and Vancouver Island in particular, is a tourism mecca. The scenery and climate draw visitors in the millions.
Tourism was not the immediate or obvious answer in 1981 when the key question was “what to do” and ideas of all sorts were being tossed around. There were thousands of tourists driving up and down the Trans-Canada Highway, but no one seemed to have good ideas about how to get them to turn off and drive the kilometre or so into town. It was Schutz who linked tourism with local economic prosperity, and saw murals as the vehicle to draw the tourists.
Today, it is estimated that Chemainus annually attracts and benefits from between 350,000 and 400,000 visitors. For most of these visitors, Chemainus represents a very pleasant diversion of several hours, though an increasing number stay overnight at one of the many bed and breakfast accommodations. Vancouver Island tour companies almost always include Chemainus as one of their stops, and during the peak season the town will see as many as 25 buses in a given day.
Following the creation of the first murals, promotion was necessary in order to get the word out. Tourism grew, but not overnight. Three years into the project, annual tourist arrivals were estimated at 15,000. However, those 15,000 must have been very excited, because the next few years saw dramatic growth in the number of tourists and, at the same time, more and more murals were being added.
While the murals attracted the tourists, the economic influence of these visitors encouraged young people to migrate to Chemainus in search of work. In addition, older people began to consider the now picturesque town as a retirement destination. The Chemainus of today has a population of 4,000 and includes thriving cafes, restaurants, gift shops, antique stores, and arts and crafts galleries. Recently, a 270-seat theatre, which houses a drama school, opened. In all, more than 70 new businesses took root in the first fifteen years of Chemainus’ redevelopment.
Typical of the local businesses is the arts and crafts store, Made in Chemainus. It represents local artists who specialize in everything from glass blowing to pottery and jewelry. Brian Donald, one of those artists, explains, “when we say local artists, we mean people who live within a few blocks. The arts community lives right here, and it's growing like never before.”
A large proportion of businesses in Chemainus are owned and operated by women. Karl Schutz says, “we realize women have been highly successful in the entrepreneurial area.” Typical of these is Degage Fashions, owned and operated by Sherry Tolman. For the past seven years she has been manufacturing and selling clothing and accessories. Sherry describes the town as “a great place to live and do business. The town is very friendly, with a nice, warm atmosphere, and the tourists are older, have lots of disposable income, and we satisfy their needs with quality products and excellent service. The murals are what bring the tourists, but they come back for the atmosphere, including the theatre and arts.” Bev Burmeister, entrepreneur and owner of the Chemainiac Shop agrees. “Chemainus has grown very nicely. Fourteen years ago, when I first opened my gift store, I could sit outside and have lunch without being interrupted. Now I need to have two staff in the store at all times.” She goes on to describe Chemainus as “unique.” Unlike many other towns in the area, Chemainus has managed to resist the large department stores, or “big boxes” as some call them. As a result, Chemainus is a small store heaven. “We have the best selection and variety of shops anywhere. It’s all small businesses, and though people come to see the murals, they return again and again to shop and experience the town’s atmosphere.” Bev’s advice to would be entrepreneurs? “There are great opportunities to start new businesses. But you have to work hard in order to be a successful entrepreneur. You have to take courses, learn about customer service, and be open to change. The opportunities are there if you are willing to work hard and invest in your ideas.”
 Native Heritage by Paul Ygarta. |
Important to note, but often overlooked, is the fact that the MacMillan Bloedel mill reopened in 1985. Completely redesigned, and far more technologically efficient, the new mill is a major employer within Chemainus. Using laser technology, it competes with the best in the world, and specializes in producing clear, high-grade lumber for the building industry, with Japan as a major customer.
With 180 employees, the mill continues to be central to life in Chemainus. While before 1982, the mill was central to Chemainus, now the town enjoys the benefits of a more diversified economic base
 In Search of Snipes -- designed and cast by Glenn Spicer. |
Chemainus is a town that, through tourism, celebrated local heritage, diversified its economy, attracted young people, and provided the impetus that gave rise to a host of small businesses including art galleries, craft and antique stores. The small businesses, which first developed and fed off the tourists who were attracted by the murals, are now drawing repeat visitors who come back for the shopping, not just the murals. This development continues.
Plans are in place to continue the mural program, and the observant visitor will see sculpture and other forms of outdoor art appearing in and around the town. In addition, Chemainus Theatre has plans for future developments.
One of the next steps involves sharing the mural program with other towns and cities around the world. In Karl Schutz’ vision, the success enjoyed by Chemainus can be easily replicated. To date, according to Karl, “though Chemainus was the first to target the murals as an economic development activity, there are now more than 100 communities in Canada, the U.S, Australia and New Zealand that have used outdoor art as a formula to enhance tourism.” Perhaps this is just the beginning.
The man with the idea, Karl Schutz , arrived in Canada in 1951. He was 21. Karl’s first job was working on the rail lines that passed through Chemainus, but within a few months he was able to secure a job at the Chemainus mill. Starting as a lumber sorter, he was soon promoted to the machine shop. After five years at the mill, Karl realized that, unlike tradition in Europe, he didn’t have to follow one trade for his entire life. Leaving the mill, he opened a custom woodworking shop that was quite successful. At the age of 40, following real estate investments, Karl retired.
Karl recalls when the mural concept took root. “It was in 1971, when my wife and I visited Romania. We saw murals that were 300 years old, and I instinctively understood the relationship between art, tourism and economic development. Understanding it versus selling it were, however, two different issues.”
At first the town thought the idea was too far fetched. Who would want to come and see art painted on the side of buildings? But Karl persevered, and almost a decade later the economic downturn in Chemainus gave rise to creative willingness. According to Karl, “The turning point came when the mayor pursued the development of a ‘downtown Chemainus’ and searched for an economic strategy.”
When asked to identify his “favourite” mural, Karl Schutz is politically careful. “I like them all, and I especially like the first one because it set a trend, was well executed, and proved my point that arts and tourism bring people together.”
As he looks back on almost twenty years of a very successful art and tourism economic development program, Karl describes the most important benefit as the way in which “pride has been put back into the community. This has been more important than the economic spin-offs, as great as they are.”
Arts & Business Council of Chemainus
P.O.Box 1311
9796 Willow Street
Chemainus, British Columbia, Canada, V0R 1K0
1 250 246-4701 (Phone)
1 250 246-3251 (Fax)
abc@tourism.chemainus.bc.ca
http://www.chemainus.com
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